TOM
VAGUE’S HOLLYWOOD BABYLON W11
INTRO
1 NOTTING HILL
IN BYGONE DAYS
2 NOTTING HELL/HEAVEN
W11
3 SYMPATHY FOR
THE DEVIL
4 HOUSES OF THE
UNHOLY
5 ONE FOOT IN
THE GROVE
6 MIDDLE EARTH
W11
7 THINGS LOOK
GREAT IN NOTTING HILL GATE, WE ALL SIT AROUND AND MEDITATE
8 HOUSES OF THE
UNHOLY REVISITED
PART 7
THINGS LOOK GREAT IN NOTTING HILL GATE, WE ALL SIT AROUND
AND MEDITATE
Quintessence: In Blissful Company As the hippy movement
went horribly wrong with the Altamont and Manson murders,
to Quintessence ‘things look great in Notting
Hill Gate, we all sit around and meditate.’ According
to the ‘Hippy Atrocities’ Oz 25 review of
their debut Island album, ‘In Blissful Company’,
the track ‘Getting it Straight in Notting Hill
Gate’ ‘transcends a tendency towards total
banality in the lyrics and achieves the status of a
minor classic.’ After getting it straight in All
Saints church hall with a lot of Grateful Dead-style
‘collective jamming’, Quintessence became
known as the ultimate or worst progressive-jazz-rock-blues-Indian-cosmic-trance-hippy
group, with their own in-house guru Swami Ambikananda.
Having said that, they don’t sound that weird
today, and back in 1969 they were described in Oz as
‘still very much your typical English blues rock
outfit.’ But they didn’t look like one.
Jim Anderson (who would shortly become one of the defendants
in the ‘Schoolkids’ Oz trial) had seen Quintessence
‘swanning around the Grove in their robes and
sandals’, and was expecting ‘an oriental
trip at least as heavy as George Harrison’s’
when he met the Australian Hindu-convert singer, Shiva
(formerly Phil) Jones, on Portobello. And he wasn’t
disappointed. In due course, Anderson found himself
‘cross-legged on a cushion in his incense laden
pad, sipping peppermint tea, slightly distracted by
the Indian petit-point of the carpets and wall hangings,
mesmerised by the caste mark on his forehead, listening
to his serious, gentle talk.’
Shiva explained Quintessence, and their take on oriental
hippyness, telling him: “Occasionally we have
kirtan which is devotional singing used to invoke Krishna
consciousness. It produces a state of complete relaxation
and happiness. Getting audiences to join in, which we
always try to do, frees their minds from fetters, makes
them forget earthly matters… At the moment our
sound is simple, but eastern influence is likely to
grow, and we may issue an album devoted entirely to
chanting, which may be more difficult to understand…
The message that we are trying to put across in our
music is that it is within the grasp of everyone to
attain infinite knowledge, love and peace. Every track
on the record reflects upon the infinite consciousness
which pervades everything.” Getting It Straight
In Notting Hill Gate is also the title of a short film
by Joe Gannon, the Pink Floyd and Quintessence lighting
whiz kid.
The Third Ear and the People Bands In the late 60s,
All Saints high church services were also given by David
Bowie – during his mime phase, the Crazy World
of Arthur Brown – doing ‘Fire’, the
Edgar Broughton Band – doing ‘Out Demons
Out’, the Third Ear Band with Tina’s Light
Theatre, and the People Band. The Carnival founder Rhaune
Laslett recalled an All Saints happening involving Jeff
Nuttall of the People Band, ‘motorbikes and very
scantily dressed girls riding pillion, throwing jam
covered newspapers and other paint dripping missiles
at the audience.’
Along Talbot Road, another important prog rock site
is the studio next to the Globe bar where Yes practiced.
This duly led to the building being sprayed with ‘No’
graffiti by Heathcote Williams; which in turn resulted
in the Banksy prototype being beaten up by a gang of
waiters.
On Westbourne Park Road, the Third Ear Band performed
‘cosmic ragas’ every Thursday at the Safari
Tent Caribbean store at number 207 (which also hosted
the early 60s Jazz club). Down Lancaster Road, in the
Methodist church hall, there was ‘music, poetry,
theatre every Wednesday’ at the Crypt folk club,
featuring Jeff Nuttall’s experimental jazz People
Band and the Third Ear Band.
The Pink Fairies’ Portobello Shuffle in Never-neverland
In the messy aftermath of the 60s and the Deviants,
Mick Farren returned from his bad stateside trip to
stay at 56 Chesterton Road in North Kensington, on and
off, through the 70s. As the hippy Napoleon of Notting
Hill, he saved International Times from the London Street
Commune, hells angels, and Richard Neville’s attempt
to form an underground media monopoly.
On the return of the remaining Deviants (Duncan Sanderson,
Russell Hunter and Paul Rudolph), they relaunched themselves
as the Pink Fairies. Originally, ‘the Pink Fairies
All Star Rock’n’Roll Show Motorcycle Circus’
was a drinking club/biker gang/glam rock terrorist cell
who met at the Speakeasy (near Oxford Circus), encompassing
all the Deviants, the Pretty Things, Larry Wallis, Vivs
Prince and Stanshall, Steve Peregrin Took and Keith
Moon of the Who.
The Pretty Things drummer Twink had an earlier Fairies
group in Colchester, and through him Syd Barrett of
Pink Floyd was in the Pink Fairies family tree –
but soon fell out again. The Floyd and the Fairies also
have flying pigs imagery in common (ie. real pigs, not
policemen), but that’s about it. The Fairies’
‘Never-neverland’ debut album features their
live standard, ‘Uncle Harry’s Last Freakout’,
recounting a 1970 hippy happening in Holland Park being
broken up by police. As reported in the underground
paper Frendz, ‘a large crowd of freaks were gathered,
quietly smoking dope and playing guitars, when a bunch
of pigs (in this case, policemen), cunningly disguised
as bushes and shrubs, leapt out and busted part of the
crowd.’
Underground Underworld: Frendz The literary equivalent
of the Pink Fairies was (ironically enough, after the
TV series) called Friends. The most underground paper
of them all began as the 60s ended, when Mick Jagger
and Jann Wenner pulled the plug on the UK edition of
Rolling Stone, for generally getting too radical; originally
as Friends of Rolling Stone. After Jann Wenner sued
the title was changed to Friends, and when Alan Marcuson
quit as editor and John Trux took over it became Frendz;
in Jan O’Malley’s Politics of Community
Action it’s miss-spelt Frenz.
Following the party celebrating the end of the UK Rolling
Stone, where Marc Bolan was spiked with acid, Alan Marcuson
established 305 (now Uncle’s restaurant) as Portobello’s
most renowned hippy number. Here pop, pot and politics
became inextricably entwined as Friends was run by Marcuson
and Charlie Radcliffe, the Situationist-turned-Howard
Marksist, ‘out of chaotic offices at the north
end – the sleaziest, blackest, most druggy end
of the Portobello Road.’
In Jonathon Green’s Days in the Life, the UK Rolling
Stone editor Andrew Bailey speaks more highly of its
radical off-shoot: “It was the highlight of my
week to go up there and score off Little Tony. Friends
was unbelievable… nothing had prepared me for
this. There was Friends, ripping off every image they
could find, doing it all on IBM golfballs and actually
making a far more vibrant product than the supposedly
professional techniques we used at Rolling Stone managed.
The north end of Portobello Road on a Saturday morning
to me was absolutely magic, I loved it.” At Friends
height, in Nigel Fountain’s Underground eulogy,
‘the phantom of the 1950s Village Voice was stalking
Portobello Road.’
Portobello Headshops Through the 70s the ground floor
of 305 was Ross Grainger’s Sunflower ‘alternative
shop’, which specialised in chillums, Kandahar
shirts, incense, natural oils, Morrocan leather bags,
Tibetan prints, rock posters, head books by Jack Kerouac,
Herman Hess and Aleister Crowley, and studies of Buddhism,
Hinduism and Taoism. In the Frendz 29 ‘Clasifadz’
plug for ‘Ross’s toys and bags’ at
the Friends shop and the Family Dog Shop at 2 Blenheim
Crescent, Ross is described as ‘a sailmaker by
trade’ who ‘specialises in real sail canvas
flax, the ancient Egyptian magic material.’
Philm Freakz A few doors down, Ten Years After were
filmed, and photographed by Philm Freakz, pretending
to play on the pavement outside the Forbidden Fruit
headshop at 295. The TYA frontman Alvin Lee and Philm
Freakz (real name, Phil Franks) both lived on Portobello
at the time. The latter’s abode was a crash-pad
and pose location of Graham Bond, Hawkwind, Gong and
Yes; he also photographed the pre-Phil Collins Genesis
in Kensal Green cemetery. Ten Years After had previously
appeared at Woodstock in 1969, and released the ‘Stonedhenge’
album.
Today the Portobello headshop tradition is maintained,
and personified by Lee Harris and Hank of Alchemy (originally
at number 253, now at 261), who had a drug paraphernalia
counter-culture trial in the 90s.
The Sacred Geometry of the Great Pyramid, Stonehenge,
Glastonbury and 307 Portobello Road In 1971 the second
Glastonbury Fayre was mobilised by Arabella Churchill
(Winston’s hippy granddaughter), whose Revelation
Enterprises were next door to Frendz at 307 Portobello
Road. This one featured a predominantly Notting Hill-based
or associated line-up; Bowie, Bolan, Traffic, Mighty
Baby, Stacia’s debut with Hawkwind, the Pink Fairies
and Skin Alley; with posters by Barney Bubbles, and
was filmed by Nic Roeg and David Puttnam. Frendz reported
that ‘Arabella Churchill put up a lot of the bread
and suffered constant hassles from her family.’
The origin of the Glastonbury festival and the cosmic
significance of the site was explained by Andrew Kerr,
as to do with sacred geometry:
‘Worthy Farm is linked to Stonehenge, the Glastonbury
Zodiac and the great cosmic pattern of ley lines and
energy points. The whole system is a mind-bender…
Sacred geometry is to do with the measurements of the
Universe… all the stone circles and megalithic
structures in the world are built according to sacred
geometry. The freemasons who built the ancient churches
and cathedrals guarded those secrets until they became
obscured by establishment ritual and archaeological
arrogance. These secrets are gradually being unearthed
by divinely inspired men like John Michell, Keith Critchlow
and Nosher… Imagine all heavenly bodies transmitting
astrological impulses (the Earth included). These impulses
are received and transmitted at high energy points (Stonehenge,
Glastonbury etc). All these energy points are connected
by leys, corresponding to the nervous system in the
human body. The leys are therefore the Earth’s
nerves by which messages are passed… The stage
at Glastonbury fair was built in the form of the Great
Pyramid on a powerful blind spring in the hope that
it would draw to it beneficial astrological influence
into our tired planet… For those who’d read
such books as John Michell’s View Over Atlantis
the site itself was of special importance: the junction
of the leylines under the pyramid and the spiritual
importance of Glastonbury itself…’
Blenheim Crescent Illuminati The last incarnation of
Frendz, edited by John Trux and John May, was back along
Portobello at 2 Blenheim Crescent, above the Dog Shop.
The Oz designer Richard Adams moved up Blenheim Crescent
to carry on designing the last issues of Oz, IT and
Frendz with Barney Bubbles, the Index of Possibilities
featuring Michael Moorcock stories, cOzmic comics and
the Bruce Lee Kung Fu Monthly postermags. Adams went
on to found the Open Head Press with Heathcote Williams,
and through the 70s they shared the upstairs offices
with the Index, Emma Tennant’s Bananas surrealist
quarterly, Hasslefree Press/Knockabout Comics, the Legalise
Cannabis Campaign, John Michell, Moorcock, Hawkwind,
Gong, Marianne Faithfull and Boss Goodman. Open Head
publications have included The Fanatic proto-X-files
magazine, and the programme for Ken Campbell’s
Illuminatus conspiracy theory fringe theatre epic, starring
the Frestonian Time Bandits star David Rappaport.
The Children of Albion Emma Tennant wrote in her Burnt
Diaries of Blenheim Crescent/Kensington Park Road (now
more famous for the real Travel bookshop represented
in Notting Hill the movie), ‘indeed this corner
of Notting Hill would be hard to define in a travel
guide. It’s possible to think of it as Albion,
when Michael Horovitz walks past, or Boadicea’s
city, when John Michell, decoder of ancient runes and
druidic circles, breezes along the pavement outside.’
In Soft City, Michael Horovitz’s ‘Vision
of Portobello’ poem from The Children of Albion
anthology – featuring ‘screaming tricycles
and melons, lettuces and ripe negroes, stripe shirt,
and others proud walking’ – is cited by
Jonathan Raban as a prime example of Blakean hippy mysticism
in ‘The Magical City’ chapter.
Macrobiotic Fantasia Jonathan Raban singled out the
Sams’ macrobiotic healthfood store, Ceres on Portobello
Road, as the most disturbing aspect of the early 70s
acid Fantasia: ‘The girls who drift about the
store, filling wire baskets with soya beans, miso and
wakame sea weed, have the dim inwardness of gaze of
Elizabeth Siddall in Rosetti’s ‘Jenny’.
In bedsitters in Ladbroke Grove, they create themselves
over gas rings, feeding their immaculate insides on
harmoniously balanced amounts of yin and yang foods.
It is hard to tell whether their beatific expressions
come from their convictions of inner virtue or from
undernourishment.’
The Sams family store first appeared as the Macrobiotic
Restaurant on Campden Hill Road, with Graham Bond playing
in the basement. After that you could find ‘a
whole universe in a bowl of brown rice’ at 136
Westbourne Terrace, where Marc Bolan met Mickey Finn,
while the Ceres Bakery on Freston Road was subject to
Here & Now gigs. Aside from dishing up muesli, bean
stew and brown rice to the hippy festival masses, the
Sams family (Craig, Greg, Ann) were wholefood suppliers
to the Bolans and the Lennons. They also published the
Harmony mag, Seed: The Journal of Organic Living, the
1977 Portobello Guide and Gideon Sams’ The Punk
novel (filmed as The Punk and the Princess). In the
guide Ann Sams calls the Lancaster Road to Oxford Gardens
section of the road ‘the Portobello Village’;
the alternative market of ‘reggae music, soul
food, underground newspapers, wholewheat bread, Bedouin
dresses, art deco objects, natural shoes, herbal medicines,
a free shop, brown rice, and a gypsy fortune teller.’
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